The greatest problem with Easter Cactus culture is stem and root rot caused by a wet, heavy potting mix. Mealybug and scale can affect the plants but it’s not a preferred food source and it takes a nearby, infected plant to start the problem. Generally, Easter Cactus don’t have any trouble with insects. Once the size of the plant has filled out the largest pot desired, prune annually by cutting back the outer leaflets symmetrically over the plant to reduce the overall size and volume. It’s important to use a well-drained potting mix one that has good air porosity, much the same as you would use for any succulent or cactus. Plants can be repotted once flowering has finished. They are moderate feeders but will respond with abundant growth during the summertime when fed regularly. Or plants can be top dressed with an organic granular fertilizer. As with most succulents, bring the soil to near dryness between waterings and then thoroughly saturate the potting mix.įertilizer can be added in a soluble form using a balanced formulation i.e. At this time watering is increased and fertilizer can be added. ![]() After flowering has finished and the days are getting longer and warmer, the plants begin their growth mode. ![]() The objective is to bring the night temperatures down below 60☏ for a couple of months to induce flower bud set.īud formation usually starts after the first of the year and the dry period needs to continue until the buds are visible. Leave the plants outside later in the fall (make sure the temperatures remain above freezing) or keep the plants inside near your coolest window. There also needs to be a cool period where temperatures drop at night into the high 50’s to just above freezing for a couple of months. As fall approaches, usually in October, soil moisture should be reduced with only occasional watering given to keep the plant from shriveling up. The flowering cycle starts in spring (right around Easter) and flower bud set is induced by dry soil and cool temperatures in early winter.
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